I am currently reading an excellent book, The Hare with Amber Eyes by Edmund de Waal. I will post a review as soon as I'm finished, but thought I would highlight this passage about women's dress in the early 1900's. At a time when women wear leggings as pants, the level of sartorial consciousness exhibited by Emmy, a society woman of Vienna, is refreshing:
"Emmy dresses to go out. . . she is wearing a pin-striped costume: an A-line skirt with a deep panel at the them cut across the grain and a matching close-cut Zouave jacket. It is a walking costume. To dress for that walk down Herrengasse would have taken an hour and a half: pantalettes, chemise in fine batiste or crêpe de Chine, corset to nip in the waist, stockings, garters, button boots, skirt with hooks up the plaquette, then either a blouse or a chemisette - so no bulk on her arms - with a high-stand collar and lace jabot, then the jacket done up with a false front, then her small purse - a reticule - hanging on a chain, jewellery, fur hat with striped taffeta bow to echo the costume, white gloves, flowers. And no scent; she does not wear it."